A thick, creamy and tangy wild mushroom stew, inspired by Belarusian mačanka and traditionally served with thick buckwheat pancakes for dipping. My version, however, features another Slovak dish in the form of lokše , which are crepes or flatbreads made with mashed potato dough. The result is so good. Then, a simple, seasonal soup made with just a handful of ingredients that captures the heart and soul of eastern European soup making. While it doesn’t belong to any single location, I hope it will taste like “home” to readers connected to the region.
I first came across this dish a few years ago when working on my previous cookbook, Kapusta . The recipe was brought up in a conversation with a wonderful food writer of Belarusian lineage, Anastasia Zolotarev, whom I’d asked to contribute to the book. Mačanka did not make it into Kapusta, but I was very glad to see it in Anastasia’s own debut book, Sour Cherries and Sunflowers . Looking into the origins of the dish, I have discovered that mačanka exists in Slovak cuisine, too, where it appears as a thick soup infused with sauerkraut brine – oh my! Both dishes are rooted in central and eastern European peasant culture of simple, hearty, nutrient-rich stews made with a handful of accessible ingredients. So here is my own play on both recipes.
Prep 20 min Cook 1 hr 30 min Serves 4–6
For the stew 100g salted butter 1 onion , peeled and thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves , peeled and minced 1 tsp fresh or dried thyme 600g chestnut mushrooms , sliced Salt and black pepper , to taste 30g dried porcini , soaked in 250ml just-boiled water 150ml sauerkraut brine , or to taste 30g plain flour 300ml single cream 2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley , to garnish
For the topping 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion , peeled and finely sliced 1 small pinch sugar 1 small pinch salt
For the pancakes 350g potatoes , quartered 125g plain flour , plus extra for dusting 1 small egg , beaten 1 pinch salt Butter , melted, for brushing
Melt half the butter in a large saucepan on a medium heat, add the onion, garlic and thyme, and fry for 10 minutes, until the onion softens. Add the sliced fresh mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt, cover and cook for about eight minutes, until they release their liquid. Strain the porcini through muslin, reserving the liquid. Rinse the porcini to get rid of any residual grit, then chop finely and add them and the reserved soaking liquid, plus the sauerkraut brine to the pan. Season with black pepper and simmer on a low heat for 15-20 minutes, to develop the flavours.
In a second pan, melt the remaining butter, stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly to avoid any lumps, for two to three minutes, until lightly golden. Gradually whisk in the cream to make a smooth sauce. Stir this into the mushroom base and cook uncovered for about five minutes, to thicken.
To make the topping, heat the oil, then fry the sliced onion with the sugar and salt until golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen towel. Top the stew with the fried onions when ready to serve, and don’t forget a sprinkle of fresh parsley!
To make the pancakes, put the quartered potatoes in a small pan of salted water, bring to a boil, then simmer for 20-25 minutes, until cooked through. Drain thoroughly, then mash well and leave to cool completely.
In a large bowl, combine the cooled mash with the flour, egg and salt, and mix to form a dough. Transfer to a well-floured surface, roll into a 5cm-diameter log, then cut into 12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, then use the rolling pin to flatten each ball into a 3mm-thick disc.
Put a dry, nonstick frying pan on a medium heat. Lay the pancakes in the hot pan (cook them in batches, if need be) in the hot pan one at a time, and cook for two to three minutes on each side, until golden brown spots appear. Remove, brush one side with butter, then stack and keep warm under a clean tea towel. Serve with the mushroom stew.
This soup is wonderfully versatile, easily adapting to the seasons and whatever ingredients you have to hand. Swap fresh cabbage for sauerkraut or fresh mushrooms for dried in this hearty staple that comes together almost effortlessly.
2 tbsp neutral vegetable oil 1 onion , peeled and diced 2 carrots , grated 1 pinch caraway seeds 1 pinch dried thyme 1 pinch salt 250g chestnut mushrooms , chopped ½ small cabbage (350g), shredded 2–4 potatoes , diced 1½ litres vegetable broth 1 bay leaf Fresh dill , to garnish Black pepper , to taste
Put the oil in a lidded stockpot or saucepan on a medium-low heat, add the onion, carrots, caraway, thyme and salt, and fry for eight to 10 minutes.
Add the mushrooms, cook for another five to eight minutes, or until their liquid is released, then add the cabbage, potatoes, vegetable broth and bay leaf. Simmer gently for 15-20 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked through but the cabbage still retains a little bite. Garnish with plenty of dill and black pepper.
These recipes are edited extracts from Lozhka: Eastern European Soups, Stews & Other Things We Eat with a Spoon, by Alissa Timoshkina, published by Quadrille at £28. To order a copy for £25.20, visit guardianbookshop.com
